Mango and Apple Swirl Spice Cake

Mango and Apple Cake
Mango and Apple Cake, no glaze

Preheat oven to 325 F

Makes 2 ea. 8 Inch Springform cakes

Like most of the baking recipes I have been doing during quarantine baking, they are either adapted from Epicurious or Bon Appetit, mostly because if I do end up doing the original given recipes to test whether we like them or not, they usually turn out exactly as promised (unlike many of the other baking recipes floated around online) that have not been tested in actual test kitchens, i.e. to make them reasonably foolproof.

I don’t know how many times a friend has called me up and said, “Oh, I just tried this recipe, it looked soooo good, and I must have done something wrong….” and then sends me the recipe. It’s usually something that’s author error, either not scribing the recipe down correctly or adapting someone else’s and not testing or just making it up as they go along. Apologies if that sounds a bit skeptical, but considering how often friends reach out to me for culinary advice and how many times I’ve looked at a recipe and went, “it’s not you, trust me, it’s not you.” You can’t expect non-professionally trained people to recognize there is not enough (or too much) of a spice, or it’s missing a step, or an ingredient or five is not entirely correct or not even there, i.e. missing it completely.

The original recipe this is based on was Swirl Spice Cake from Epicurious.

The first time I made this, I added in some diced apples, we had been getting some wonderful local apples this past fall, and when they start to turn a little or get spotted, i.e., my husband won’t eat them, I dice them up and freeze them to use for baking or cooking. The first time I made this, I doubled the recipe, got distracted, and added half the amount of sugar called for. I compensated by drenching it in orange Grand Gala liqueur, orange juice concentrate and powdered sugar, about four times the amount called for in the Epicurious recipe (with the addition of the Grand Gala and minus the pecans with some altered spice mix as well) for the first time I messed with this.

A few additional differences between the original and this recipe as I altered to taste some of the amounts and ingredients. Salted vs. unsalted butter in the streusel mix, their Savory to Sweet mix is different, mine because I like espresso vs. regular coffee in recipes, and being out of at the time: pecans, orange peel, cardamom, and fennel. I have all of those now (except for the bee pollen) but like the flavor better with the original mix I made.

Mango and Apple Cake, no glazeBaking time is different from the original recipes as I use springform pans. No parchment liner instead of loaf pans with liner, decrease the amount of sugar slightly. When I did the recipe again with the appropriate amount of sugar (see note last paragraph), it was too sweet, especially with the orange glaze (no liquor). Plus, I added some passion fruit flakes for this batch, which added some slight tartness.

I’ve been using maple syrup as a sub for pure vanilla for ages. It is cheaper for one, and I’ve baked with both side by side, and honestly unless the vanilla is for something specifically vanilla flavored, you can’t tell the difference in a baked product, custard yes, baked no.

I also cream the butter and sugar, add the rest of the wet ingredients, and then slowly incorporate the dry ingredients. A lot of these recipes online make you do five steps for things that you can get the same results with two stages, and I had been doing those 2 or 3 steps for years cooking professionally, so I kind of roll my eyes when I see some things.

Many of these online recipes make me crack up because it takes twice as long to do something that doesn’t have to be done the way suggested. There is also a huge difference between when you have a couple of hours free to make a cake at home vs. you’ve got about 10 minutes or less to whip something together in a restaurant kitchen.

For the middle streusel mix:

  • ¾ cup light brown sugar
  • ¼ cup AP flour
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher salt
  • ½ cup melted salted butter, I prefer Kate’s Homemade Butter (localish out of Maine)
  • ¼ cup espresso powder or very finely ground regular espresso (a little less if using the straight coffee as the flavor is stronger)
  • 2 Tablespoons ground cinnamon
  • 2 Tablespoons ground ginger

Dry Ingredients:

  • 4 cups AP flour
  • 1 teaspoons baking powder
  • 2 teaspoons Kosher salt
  • ½ teaspoons baking soda

Wet Ingredients:

  • 2 1/4 cups sugar
  • 1 ½ cups salted or unsalted butter, room temp
  • 6 eggs, room temp
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 2 Tablespoons maple syrup
  • ½ oz. Suncore passion fruit flakes

Add to batter:

  • 16 oz. mango chunks (I used Wymans frozen mango chunks and cut them up a little bit more as the chunks were kind of large, let them defrost prior to mixing into the batter), do not strain any liquid.
  • 16 oz diced apples (skin on) of your choice. (For this recipe, we had some frozen diced Macoun apples from our local orchard that were going soft so had diced them up and frozen to use for baking at a later date.)

Cake Glaze:

  • ½ cup powdered sugar
  • 2 Tablespoons orange juice concentrate, room temp
  • 5 Tablespoons Grand Gala Orange liquor
    (you can skip adding the sugar and orange juice but definitely recommend dousing with the orange liquor)

Method:

  1. In a stand mixer with a paddle, cream butter and sugar together, incorporate in slowly all of the eggs, than add the sour cream and maple syrup. Add in the dragonfruit flakes and mix on slow.
  2. Sift the dry ingredients together and slowly incorporate into the sugar/butter/egg mix. Scrape batter into a large bowl and incorporate the apples and mangos.
  3. Spray the pans with non-stick cooking spray, I prefer Vegalene (available in restaurant supply places or Amazon) as it’s what we always used in professional kitchens and in my opinion it’s much better than retail cooking sprays like Pam.
  4. Mix the spice mix together including the melted butter, it will look a bit granulated.
  5. Spoon half the batter into the pans and spread evenly, split the spice mix between the two pans and swirl around evenly on top of the batter, spoon the rest of the batter over the top and settle it. I pick the pans up about 2 inches off the counter top and tap a couple of times onto the counter to help settle the batter.
  6. Bake for 1 hour 45 minutes or until a tester comes out clean
  7. Remove from the oven and place on a baking rack and let cool in the Springform pans for about 15 minutes before loosening the springform clips.
  8. Remove the outer ring of the springform pan, leaving the cakes on the bottom forms. You may want to move the rack on top of a baking sheet at this point as the next step can make a little bit of a mess.
  9. Combine the orange juice concentrate, Grand Gala and powdered sugar and stir until the sugar dissolves, spoon the mix over the top and sides of the still warm cakes.(or just the liquor if you choose)
  10. Serve warm or let cool completely before refrigerating. Good hot, cold or toasted. Wrap well as the cake can pick up refrigerator odors. This recipe freezes well.
  11. This is a pretty dense cake, it gets denser when refrigerated, more like a traditional pound cake than airy cake.

Mango and Apple Mini CakesI made several mini cakes with this as well mixing in Suncore red dragon fruit powder (red coloring), the cook time was about an hour and 15 minutes for these, I have been playing around quite a bit with Suncore foods color powders off and on.  I fell in love with their food color powders a few years ago but don’t buy often as they are a bit on the pricey side, but well worth it for the results especially for cookies, meringues, macarons and custards.

It’s on my to do list to mess with them with some fresh pasta which I will do at some point soon. I’ve made black pasta with squid ink in a few of my restaurants before but have not experimented (yet) with their ebony carrot powder which I’m looking forward to. When I was at CIA and we had a module called Experimental Kitchen in our first year, my partner for the week and I were experimenting with colored pastas and dessert pastas, considering this was in the very early 90s probably a little before it’s time but we had a lot of fun with them. I do remember we tried some pretty wacky flavors, but the pasta with dried blueberries and blueberry extract was absolutely beautiful in it’s pre-cooked state, sadly a bit washed out when cooked but delicious when we paired it as a chilled dessert dish with some Creme Anglaise and white chocolate shavings.

The mini cakes added a nice light pink color to the top of the cakes but I didn’t add enough to significantly color the interior but it did add a nice little extra tangy flavor to the mini cakes.

Ch-ch-ch-chia! Cooking with Chia seeds

Chia Seeds
Soaked Chia Seeds (left) same amount un-soaked (right)*

One thinks of Chia, and one has a flashback (if you are old enough to remember this) to the Chia Pet craze of the late 70s and early 80s. I admittedly had a chia pet that my cat used to decimate regularly.

Chia seeds were vaguely on my horizon as one of the “happening” food trends and the “new” superfoods a few years ago, even though they have been around for a long, LONG time. No pun intended.

Chia seeds came on my horizon when the pandemic started hitting, and stores ran out of staples, like eggs. Thankfully the shortages didn’t last long, but it sparked my curiosity with what else can we use in baking and cooking as an egg substitute? Even powdered eggs were in short supply for a time. I’d used egg replacer in the past but never really investigated alternatives before.

In my quest to find and try egg replacers that actually tasted good, were at least semi-good for you, and worked well as a binder, I tried quite a few things.

Applesauce, Ground Flaxseeds, Commercial Egg Replacer, Tofu, Vinegar and Baking Soda, Yogurt, Buttermilk, Arrowroot Powder, Aquafaba (the liquid left from canned beans and chickpeas, Agar-Agar, Gelatin and Chia seeds were all egg replacements I have experimented with over the last 6 months.

Some replacers had mixed results, and some I found were better for replacements than others. Most of these replaced eggs well for baked goods but were poor substitutes for eggs in other mediums. I tried them with savory (and some sweet) recipes like Caesar dressing, hollandaise (yes that too), puddings, mousses, or breading a product (i.e. dipped in egg, then flour, then breading product) or used as a base for a batter for frying.

I know there are several others I have not yet gotten to (and may), but these are ones I’ve tested so far:

Chia Quick Bread
Chia (whole seed) Quick Bread (left) with apples and dried cherries. Same recipe on the right without chia seeds. The chia loaf took a little longer to bake, but also rose considerably higher than the recipe without chia seeds

Applesauce; use unsweetened or add less sugar for baking. Not a good replacement for thickening savory dishes or a replacement for breading or batters (for frying).

Ground Flaxseeds; not bad as a binder for baking; I found you needed to add more moisture to any baking recipes plus, I did find even small amounts had a flax taste to it, not bad if you like flax seeds but not my favorite. Flax seed ground does make a nice breading material for chicken though, adding a nice, slightly nutty flavor. Not a good replacement for thickening savory dishes or a replacement for breading or batters (for frying).

Banana, great as binder, adds a bit of a banana flavor to any baking (not a bad thing unless you don’t like bananas), makes baked goods moist and a bit denser than recipes with eggs. Not a good replacement for thickening savory dishes or a replacement for breading, but it is a good substitute for eggs in batter dishes for frying (again, as long as you don’t mind the slight banana taste) make sure the banana is pureed well.

Commercial Egg Replacer; I’ve used this in the past for baked goods and had a little bit stocked in the pantry for the imminent (but thankfully never happening Zombie apocalypse). Bob’s Red Mill and Ener-G were the two I’d most frequently baked with. Egg replacer works fine as a replacement for baked goods, not so much for savory items. Not a good replacement for thickening savory dishes or a substitute for breading or batters (for frying).

Tofu; Silken soft tofu pureed up makes a decent replacement for baked goods but tends to make the final product denser than recipes with eggs. I use tofu in cooking, but firm tofu cubed or baked in slabs. This works “ok” pureed to thicken savory dishes but it doesn’t thicken quite enough to my taste.

Vinegar and Baking Soda; Apple cider or distilled white works the best. Use with cakes, sweet or quick breads. Not the best for substituting in cookies. Not a good replacement for thickening savory dishes or a replacement for breading or batters (for frying).

Yogurt; Similar to Vinegar and Baking soda, Use with cakes, sweet or quick breads. Not the best for substituting in cookies. This is a good replacement for thickening savory dishes (whole milk plain yogurt) and is a good replacement for breading or batters (for frying).

Buttermilk; same as yogurt.

Arrowroot Powder; I love arrowroot; I use it as a thickener for soups and sauces frequently, its great for breading (especially Chinese food), and it is an excellent replacement for eggs for pretty much any use.

Aquafaba; (the liquid left from canned beans and chickpeas); best used as a substitute for egg whites, also a great replacement for breading savory items to bake or sauté. It does do some odd things with batter for frying, I’ve found though.

Agar-Agar; A decent replacement for eggs in baking, it will create a denser and stiffer texture in baked goods. Great as a thickener for savory dishes (be leery of using too much though, or you end up with a big gloppy mess.) Not recommended as a replacement for breading or batters for frying.

Gelatin; see the Agar-Agar comments

and last but not least

Soaked Chia Seeds
Soaked Whole Chia Seeds

Chia seeds….

Ground-up chia seeds; 1 Tablespoon to 3 Tablespoons of water for about 5 minutes = one egg. 

If you don’t grind them but still soak them, they will look like frog eggs. The seeds will be surrounded by a gelatin-like coating. If using whole, you need about 4 Tablespoons + water to equal one egg.

Chia is a great replacement for eggs, both ground and unground for baking goods. Not a great replacement for breading and “interesting” but not a bad way, ground as a substitute for eggs in batters.

I think I’ve primarily fallen in love with them because they add a great extra added flavor and texture to baked goods (whole chia seeds), and I’ve experimented with putting them in granola bar mixes and chocolate brittle/barks. Cracked black pepper, chia seed (whole), and lime are an amazing combination in chocolate brittle/bark. Hot, tart and crunchy at the same time. And I’ve made a really good energy bar with Chia as well (recipe coming soon).

In savory recipes, I have been adding them to my veggie burgers (not formerly a fan of veggie burgers prior either, but I am now) and it is great for using as part of a breading crust for chicken, the afore mentioned veggie burgers, and fish.

Just be careful if sautéing with it and using it as part of your breading, chia seeds POP when they get really hot. So I either mix with other ingredients for a crust and bake or sauté off on medium heat until the product is lightly browned and then finish in the oven.

Some additional perks of using Chia seeds:

  • High in fiber, about 5 grams of fiber per Tablespoon.
  • 1 oz of Chia seeds has about 1/2 grams of protein.
  • Chia has one of the highest sources of Omega-3s of almost any food.
  • Chia contains calcium, more than skim milk.
  • Chia is apparently great for weight loss, but that’s a great additional benefit after the taste, texture and versality of it have come first in my book.
  • You can use it to grow microgreens. They are extremely easy to grow and actually healthier and safer to eat than sprouts. (using chia pet seeds, though for this is not recommended as apparently they have probably been sitting around for awhile).
Crab Cakes
Crab Cakes with Chia Seeds

I’d also recommend checking out an article by the Harvard School of Public Health which has some additional information about chia seeds, and there are literally hundreds of other articles touting the superfood if you do a little browsing on Google.

One thing to note, I’ve read this in several places as a suggestion, and I’ve seen how much Chia expands with moisture; it is very much NOT recommended to just pop handfuls of chia seeds as I’ve seen several articles recommend just chowing them down as a snack. 

That is not unless you prefer a visit from the local rescue squad.

One additional thing I’ve found as I’ve researched the history and uses of chia seeds. Cats (and dogs) can eat the greens (same as with humans, please don’t mix directly with food if you are not going to soak it first!), and when planted outside, the flowers are a great nectar source for bees and butterflies!

What more could I ask for? Delicious, Nutritious, and good for pollinators! The perfect top off to my chia obsession would be a Baby Yoda Chia Pet. Oh wait… they have those too! And two different zombie chia pets as well. (I had mentioned the zombie apocalypse did I not?). Not a big fan of zombie movies (although Shaun of the Dead IS awesome), but from a food standpoint, apocalypse food prepping has a strangely fascinating aspect to me.

The pandemic with people hoarding toilet paper always made me chuckle, I’d rather horde Chia seeds, at least they are edible and multiuse. Somehow sautéed toilet paper with a nice garlicky marinara just doesn’t have the same appeal. 

****Photo top right has a picture of Better Body Foods Chia seeds, this is not an official endorsement or paid product placement, merely the fact that I’ve tried a bunch of different brands since first falling in love with chia seeds and it’s the best one I’ve found so far out there. Plus from Amazon (sorry but no one local has it that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg) it’s more cost effective. I’ve apparently bought over 20 containers since March so that’s probably saying something, both about the product and the fact that I’m apparently chia crazy.

Welcome to My New Blog

Heather Turner photos
HT Then and Now (Left, circa 2001, Cape Cod American Culinary Federation (ACF) photo) a decade later (Right, circa 2011, Michigan Lake 2 Lake Conference, session on Plate Presentation)

So the world probably doesn’t need another food blog. But it’s also people’s personal choices to read blogs, so if this isn’t of interest, they can browse elsewhere. No one’s going to hold a potato peeler to their heads and threaten to peel them if they don’t cooperate.

As you’ve probably guessed from the second line, I tend to be snarky and sarcastic (which I’m told sarcasm is actually not the same thing as being snarky, that sounds good, so I’ll take their word for it. When I asked for the difference, I was told, “you tend to be sarcastic about things but snarky regarding yourself (i.e., self-mocking) occasionally.“) That totally works for me, so here you go.

How did this food blog come about? Well, first of all, please don’t ever call it a foodie blog or me a foodie. Please! Just don’t. I take that as an insult. The term foodie is complementary to most people, but when someone calls me an expert or guru, I tend to get a bit, well, snarky. I don’t feel I am an expert at something that changes on literally a daily basis.

Bald Man With Glass and Question MarkNow tell me my food is delish and that squashed ugly chef ego raises its ugly head, and I’d say, “Yes, I know!” But marketing self-labeled experts, mavens or gurus fall into the same category as foodies to me. I think I’ll just not go there right now. Um yeah, no, did I mean I was sarcastic about labels? Now why pray tell, do I dislike the term “foodie.” I’ve probably managed to insult people who call themselves foodies, and please don’t be insulted. You can call yourself a foodie all you want; just don’t call me one.

I am a food professional. I was trained professionally, mentored by many very knowledgeable professionals, and worked professionally in kitchens for over 20 years. To me, a foodie is the guy who knows about the different regions that produce olive oil in Italy but can’t tell you how to properly cook with it to save his life. As my husband likes to say about me when I have my ugly chef ego rises occasionally (only regarding food), “Once a chef, always a chef.”

So I digress as I am wont to do (you’ve been warned), the food blog is coming about for various reasons.

One: I’ve been blogging since about 2009, marketing posts mixed with restaurant advice, operations posts, food advice, and the occasional recipe. I started out on a WordPress.com blog originally (still up at https://chefforfeng.wordpress.com), and when I redid my website a few years ago and moved from straight HTML to WordPress.org, I incorporated the blog in it for future posts. It really is time for me to separate it out.

Two: I’ve been getting emails recently inviting me to do contests for recipes using products, not something I previously had any inclination to do. I won some culinary competitions way back when I was at CIA for a seafood contest, and I think there was a cheese contest (it was a long time ago), but I never really had any interest in doing them otherwise since then. These new ones sound like a ton of fun, though, and one of the requirements is to have a frequently updated food blog (i.e., “just” a food blog).

Three: I recently did a level four elective project for Toastmasters (member since 2009 and working on my third DTM) in the Motivational Strategies path; the project was to use a current blog or start a new blog and do 8 posts in a month. Yeah, that wasn’t happening (and it didn’t, but I’ll be doing the elective again in another path because it did not hit my time goal), and I thought it would be a good kick in the arse for me to be more consistent with my blog posts again. When I first started blogging, I was actually terrific about doing at least several posts per month. In the last couple of years, meh….. not so much.

Four: Since Covid hit, I’ve been doing an awful lot of baking and since weekends since March consisted of not being able to go do much with friends, let’s experiment and muck around in the kitchen. I used to hate baking. I really, really, REALLY did. I think CIA brainwashed me (apologies to my wonderful, knowledgeable instructors in baking and pastry), but I didn’t enjoy having to measure things to exact amounts. I loved playing with chocolate and fondant, but ye gods, have to measure everything precisely? Yikes! Give me an excellent savory sauce to mess with any day!

I worked in restaurants for many years, where I was the cook, baker, and candlestick maker. I did not like to bake. “I do not like to bake, I’d rather have a steak.” I think there is a Dr. Seuss rhyme in there somewhere. Since Covid, there were only so many stews I could make, pot pies I could bake, and stocks that I could slake (sorry meant strain, apparently a Police song just went running through my odd little brain). So I decided to go online and find some recipes to torture my husband and neighbors with.

Needless to say, after much experimenting and finding, HEY baking IS fun, and no, you don’t have to follow the ever begotten recipe exactly. I’ve been enjoying the new adventure. Part of the adventure and the challenge is being out of ingredients and finding, figuring out and testing what can be used as substitutions. In the mid-nineties I worked as a chef at a restaurant in Stowe, Vermont that had challenges to beat the band in terms of having to substitute things in a pinch, more on that in an upcoming blog post.

Five: I really like to write. I freely admit I am not the best writer; being dyslexic with an odd sense of humor tends to make things, well, a bit odd, especially the grammar (thank you, Grammarly for catching most of my oddities) at times. But I do like to write, so this is good therapy along with the mucking around in the kitchen. I find cooking, and now baking, very therapeutic, and so is writing, and in this new year, I am resolving to try to write more.

To date, the only new year’s resolution I’ve managed to keep in many decades is to never buy a lottery ticket, but I figure this one is a good one to at least try to be more consistent with writing because it’s fun and it’s a tie into my one true love (besides my awesome hubby and pups)… my love of food.

So I’ll try to keep this blog food-related, some desserts, some savories, some miscellaneous snarky and sarcastic commentary about food and the food industry, and hopefully a few cooking tips that may help you along the way. Requests and questions are always taken.

If you’ve gotten this far, thank you in advance for putting up with me through this intro/rant to my new blog. Let’s have some fun, shall we?

If you missed the last two recipes from other blog, check them out: Chocolate, Coconut and Barberry Biscotti and Chocolate Chip Bourbon Cake